Patch Brake Line Leak
I believe the feed line in my fuel system has rotted. If I'm going to cut out the rusted areas and splice a new line in. Is it best to flare a hardline?. Is steel the OEM material?. How would I connect the two?. Compression fittings?I'm confused about the options to do this.
Would rubber fuel hose work?. Would rubber fuel hose work?. Do I just use hose clamps?. Should I flare the hard line first and slip the hose over it?. Do rubber fuel hoses last a while?. Can fuel seep through rubber hoses causing a gas smell?
We don't know what country you are in, but in the UK any leak in the fuel system, or part of fuel tank and lines in 'poor condition', will fail the annual MOT safety inspection. I would expect any 'non-standard' repair job would with 'improvised' joints would be considered as 'poor condition'. That's aside from issues like a failure spraying fuel over a hot engine, fuel vapor getting inside the car and being ignited by a cigarette, etc. There are some things you should never play with, and gasoline is one of them!–Oct 30 '16 at 15:55.
Brake Line Repair Compression Fitting
I've had to deal with rotten fuel lines on my '94 Nissan. Took me a year to find a suitable solution.Like you, I was considering steel lines to replace the entire thing, but the steel lines I found were shorter than what I needed, so I needed to splice several lengths together. The issue I had was how to splice them together. The sections I could buy didn't have a connector on the ends, and the tools I could find for flaring and crimping were not inspiring my confidence, as they were:. stretching the already thin metal in order to make the flared end. the tool was leaving deep teeth marks in the already thin metal. both ends were fitting rather clumsily and I could guarantee they would leak.I spent most of that year looking for a proper tool that would do this to my satisfaction, did't find one.
Brake Line Repair Kit Autozone
What I did find instead is a shop that sold all kinds of lines cut to your length with whatever connector you needed. Sure, they had steel lines, which are hard to bend without crimping.
They also had some copper alloy you could bend with your bare hands and won't rust as quick as steel lines. $120 for all 3 fuel lines and they made them in about 10 minutes while I waited, complete with the ends I needed.
Each line was one solid piece.Of course, when I got in there to remove the original fuel lines, I got an eyeball on the brake lines and I got scared. Went back to the shop, $140, now I got both runs of brake lines for the rear brakes. Brand spanking new from the firewall to the rear struts.Find a hose shop near you.
Brake Line Repair Tape
Google for 'brake lines,' 'hydraulic lines,' that's the kind of shop you want. They make stuff for industrial applications mostly, but their tools and materials can handle automotive as well. The absolute best way is to replace the entire steel line. When this isn't possible, use as much steel as you can and as little fuel injection rated hose as possible. Autocad training at home.
The issue with rubber hose is that it will seep fuel if the outside of the steel line is rusty or has a rough uneven surface. Find a clean area with minimal rust. If you can flare the end, the connection with the hose will be more secure. Use the more expensive fuel injection clamps.
Replace as much of the rusted area with steel as possible. Make the last connection with rubber hose. Again flare the ends and use just enough hose to make a secure connection, generally less than six inches in length. The hose will deteriorate over time and should be inspected at least annually.